Are the dyes and finishes used in the fashion industry toxic?
The majority of fabric dyes are petrochemical based, comprising primarily of azo dyes, heavy metals, and chlorobenzenes.
Dyes
Azo Dyes
Azo dyes are used to achieve vivid hues (translation: neon). They are nitrogen-containing compounds that may release amines — suspected carcinogens and may cause genetic changes to human cells. This study also showed that azo dyes shed off clothing and home textiles into our house dust - meaning we may be breathing them in.
Polyester/Disperse Dyes
Polyester needs a specific dye process for the dyes to fix onto the fabric (it is hard to dye plastic!). They are called ‘disperse’ dyes as they are dispersed into a water-based solution. Certain disperse dyes are common skin sensitizers - but they all have the potential for allergic reactions.
Quinoline Dyes
Quinoline is known to be carcinogenic; however, it has shown up as a contaminant in disperse dyes.
Chlorobenzenes and Toluenes
Chlorobenzenes and Toluenes are used in the dyeing process as carriers (which disperse dye throughout fabric). They are more often used in polyester and polyester blend textiles, rather than natural textiles. They can be toxic by inhalation or skin contact and long-term exposure may lead to cancer.
Heavy Metals
Heavy metals (antimony, arsenic, barium, cadmium, chromium, lead, mercury, and nickel) are used to “fixate” color in fabric, produce bright colors (lead), and are present in leather goods (chromium is used in leather tanning).
They can accumulate in the environment - particularly from wastewater - as well as in our bodies, possibly harming our health. Over a long period of time, this buildup can disrupt metabolic functions by impairing vital organ and gland function and displacing nutritional minerals needed by the body. See the breakdown of health implications here.
Greater Implications:
Not only do these dyes impact consumers, but they also impact the workers involved in the fabric production process that are handling these chemicals raw.
In addition, many dyes contaminate wastewater from textile factories, and may impact communities nearby.
Lastly, toxins in the water may block sunlight from reaching life in the water and increase oxygen levels in the water, thereby inhibiting photosynthesis and the re-oxygenation process that life within these waters — both plant and animal — need to survive. Toxins can also be absorbed and ingested by sea life, thereby making their way through the food chain.
How to avoid/lower exposure to toxic dyes and heavy metals in fashion:
Look for pieces that are bluesign and OEKO-TEX certified, as these denote safe chemistry practices were used
Opt for all-natural fibers (cotton, linen, hemp, lyocell/Tencel) to avoid disperse dyes
Choose undyed pieces
Support brands with chemical management processes (this can include smaller brands with full transparency on their ingredients, as well as bigger companies like Levi’s, Nike, United Colors of Benetton aligned with international standards such as Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) and bluesign)
Look for vegetable-tanned or chromium-free tanning processes to avoid chromium in leather goods. The Leather Working Group (LWG) certification is a great one to look for here
Toxic Finishes
Formaldehyde and ammonia are added to fabrics in order to make clothing wrinkle and stain-resistant, respectively. Ammonia is also often found in laundry detergent for stain removal.
Utility in clothing production:
Formaldehyde is used in the finishing process of clothing production to make the piece wrinkle-resistant, as well as resistant to mold, fix dyes to fabric, and for bleaching. It is used on both synthetic and natural fabrics to give them these properties.
Types of clothing:
Clothing marketed as “wrinkle-” or “mold-resistant” may have been treated with formaldehyde, as well as pieces that have been bleached or dyed with synthetic dyes.
Health risks:
Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, according to the International Agency for Research on Cancer. Contact with this chemical by inhalation poses the highest health risk and can cause discomfort or nausea, irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, and exacerbation of asthma.
Contact through wearing formaldehyde-treated clothing is most frequently associated with dermatitis, eczema, and allergic reactions.
How to avoid formaldehyde in fashion:
Instead of choosing wrinkle-resistant clothing, wear fibers that are naturally resistant to wrinkling, including wool, cashmere and lyocell. (p.s., MATE's new Alpaca fiber collection is a great place to start!)
In addition, washing clothing before wear may be a significant method for reducing formaldehyde content in clothing.
Clothing that is GOTS certified is free from formaldehyde.