Modern Day Alchemy
Clothes That Heal, Featuring California Cloth Foundry
Alchemy — such a beautiful word, isn’t it? Upon hearing it I visualize Nicolas Flamel and his philosopher’s stone, defying death by achieving immortality; or, a medieval chemist, mixing potions with science ahead of their time. But, what if I told you alchemy is also present in modern times, and, not only that, you can partake in it too? Welcome (back!) to the world of regenerative fashion.
Introducing California Cloth Foundry
A fellow ingredient reader (and fellow Lydia!), California Cloth Foundry’s (CCF) founder Lydia Wendt is an alchemist in her own right, designing clothing “with the same consideration as our food — naturally, and with nothing we can’t consume”.
“The purity of our ingredients is our alchemy.”
CCF’s approach to fashion is cloth and clothing developed In Collaboration with Nature®, stemming from regenerative agriculture*, the development of plant and protein-based fibers, and all-natural dyes. The health of consumers, garment workers, and the earth is the first and foremost concern, with beautiful products the result of this pursuit.
Intrigued? Continue on for all of the ways CCF is trailblazing the world of healthy fashion.
Clothes That Heal
Our skin is our largest absorbing organ; therefore, anything that sits against it — especially for long periods of time, such as clothing — can be taken in and impact the body’s normal functioning. When speaking of clothing, the fabric type, dyes applied to the fabrics, and the finishes used to treat the fabrics can all impact our health.
In most fashion brands, it is unheard of to know what the fabrics, dyes, and finishes composing our clothing even are, let alone what they are doing to the body upon wear. However, CCF is the most transparent brand I have ever come across. They even have an ingredient list on their website breaking down each and every item used in clothing development (if you know me, you know I love an ingredient list!). Let’s dive in, shall we?
Fabrics
Fossil-based or petrochemical-based fabrics have been found to include chemicals that negatively impact the body when absorbed. BPA, a known endocrine disruptor, and PFAs, commonly known as forever chemicals, are two such toxins, with the data pointing to disruption of the body’s metabolism, growth and development, and reproduction after contact (1–4).
You will not find an ounce of toxic textiles in any piece of CCF clothing. Their fabrics range from certified organic cotton to wood-pulp-derived fibers (Lenzing), from hemp (a nutrient-rich, carbon sequestering* plant) to Lani’s Wool (to my animal-sensitive friends, don’t worry — Lani’s wool is grown using sustainable, natural methods with respect for the sheep!).
Dyes and Finishes
The use of plant- and animal-derived fibers by CCF removes concerns about the aforementioned toxins associated with synthetics, as well as the concern for microplastics shedding into our water and airways. However, the health implications of a garment run deeper than the base fabric. The materials with which the fabric is dyed and finished play a large role in how the clothing impacts the health of the wearer, garment worker, and the environment. Luckily, this is where CCF truly shines.
Where most commercial fashion brands use chemical-based dyes composed primarily of azo dyes, heavy metals and chlorobenzenes, California Cloth Foundry uses only the the purest of certified ingredients. Logwood for rich purple, weld for bright yellow, madder root for coral, indigo for deep blue, chestnuts for charcoal, gallnut to make the colors just right—it’s Mother Nature’s color palette.
These dyes do more than compliment the wearer’s complexion. Gallnut, for instance, has a high amount of natural tannin compounds present, giving it bacteria-wicking properties (5). Madder root and chestnuts have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties (6–7) that may be taken into the skin upon wear. Iron, in the same form as our vitamin, is added in the dyeing process to extend the range of colors, as well as extend the life of the dyed fabrics. Functional, beautiful, and safe enough to handle raw in the garment development process. How many brands can say that?
The Ultimate Circular Clothing Development Model
Locally Designed
California Cloth Foundry is aptly named, as they work exclusively in the United States from soil to fabric — back to soil. “From the Carolinas to California, we are focused on healing our planet, starting right here in our own backyard, by making a commitment to the regenerative health and stability of the regions our materials and manufacturing comes from,” says Lydia of their all-American supply chain.
They buy directly from farmers, and natural material producers, forging relationships that are rarely done in fast fashion — if ever. This allows CCF to procure the finest of fibers and botanical colors for their textiles, adding to the longevity of their clothing. Not only that, but they also vet out all manufacturers and vendors to ensure everyone involved in the clothing development process is paid a fair living wage. Love to support a brand that supports its workers!
Circularity
Not only are their materials sustainably sourced, but they are pure enough to even be compost — and they have soil results to prove it. The CCF team partnered with two compost processors local to LA: Compostable LA, a women and BIPOC-owned company with a mission to transform former ‘waste’ into future nutrients to close the loop in our food systems, and the Sustainability Institute of the Student Fashion Farm at the California State University, Northridge. Both compiled compost feedstock complete with food scraps, chicken manure, CCF’s fabric, and mulch, tended to the soil weekly, and sent soil samples to be tested for moisture, pH, bacterial, fungal, and nutrient levels.
The result? Healthy pH, abundant nutrients, and good carbon content, fungal and bacterial biomass. Translation: CCF’s clothing is beneficial for the environment from source to skin to soil, creating the ultimate circular* clothing development model. (Not to mention the social and economic benefits associated with reducing the climate impact of textiles!)
From CCF To Your Closet
Now that I’ve relayed to you the magic behind the brand, it’s time to add CCF to your wardrobe. From cozy organic cotton sweatpants to lounge in, to a luxe and airy maxi dress for your trip to the farmer’s market, the clothing will have you feeling one with nature. Embrace your inner alchemist and don’t be surprised if, upon wear, everything you touch turns to gold!
p.s. Save the packaging and add it to your compost when the clothing is ready to go back to the earth. Check out their guide for composting your CCF pieces here.
*Mother Nature’s Dictionary:
Regenerative agriculture refers to farming practices with the intention of rebuilding soil health, reducing the use of water and other inputs, and preventing land degradation and deforestation. Basically, it is farming in harmony with nature!
Carbon sequestration is the process of capturing and storing atmospheric carbon dioxide. It is one method of reducing the amount of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere with the goal of reducing global climate change.
Circular fashion stops the linear “take-make-waste” model and instead closes the loop on production, including responsible manufacturing, use, and end-of-life for every garment.
References:
Environmental Protection Agency. (n.d.). Our Current Understanding of the Human Health and Environmental Risks of PFAS. EPA. Retrieved January 24, 2022, from https://www.epa.gov/pfas/our-current-understanding-human-health-and-environmental-risks-pfas
Lin, P.-I. D., Cardenas, A., Hauser, R., Gold, D. R., Kleinman, K. P., Hivert, M.-F., Fleisch, A. F., Calafat, A. M., Webster, T. F., Horton, E. S., & Oken, E. (2019, May 28). Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances and blood lipid levels in pre-diabetic adults-longitudinal analysis of the Diabetes Prevention Program Outcomes Study. Environment International. Retrieved January 24, 2022, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0160412019305094
U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. (2020). Bisphenol A (BPA). National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences. https://www.niehs.nih.gov/health/topics/agents/sya-bpa/index.cfm. Accessed June 20, 2021.
Healthline. What Is BPA and Why Is It Bad for You? https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/what-is-bpa Accessed June 20, 2021.
Koh, E., & Hwa Hong, K. (2013, October 4). Gallnut extract-treated wool and cotton for developing Green Functional Textiles. Dyes and Pigments. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0143720813003409?via%3Dihub
Rodrigues, P., Ferreira, T., Nascimento-Gonçalves, E., Seixas, F., Gil da Costa, R. M., Martins, T., Neuparth, M. J., Pires, M. J., Lanzarin, G., Félix, L., Venâncio, C., Ferreira, I. C. F. R., Bastos, M. M. S. M., Medeiros, R., Gaivão, I., Rosa, E., & Oliveira, P. A. (2020). Dietary Supplementation with Chestnut (Castanea sativa) Reduces Abdominal Adiposity in FVB/n Mice: A Preliminary Study. Biomedicines, 8(4), 75. https://doi.org/10.3390/biomedicines8040075
Nam, W., Kim, S. P., Nam, S. H., & Friedman, M. (2017). Structure-Antioxidative and Anti-Inflammatory Activity Relationships of Purpurin and Related Anthraquinones in Chemical and Cell Assays. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 22(2), 265. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules22020265